Last night 47 years ago...
Last night 47 years ago was the first night I ever spent in Rome, with accommodations at the Pensione Hélène within the upper two stories of the Villa Hélène. Then, as now, the lower stories of the Villa Hélène contain the Hendrik Christian Andersen Museum. I visited the museum only once, and, to be honest, I wasn't all that comfortable being there. I was 21 years old at the time, and I really didn't know what to make of the place because it was strangely like some sort of exuberant nudist camp museum.
2024.08.12
From The Discovery of Piranesi's Final Project:
12 August 2023 Saturday
Pierre-Adrien Pâris, Louis-Alexandre Trouard, Francesco, and even Laura have abundant fond memories of their times together. And Piranesi, too, has many fond memories of Pierre-Adrien.
When Piranesi first met Pierre-Adrien and Louis-Alexandre he quickly recognized a most fortunate opportunity. Louis-Alexandre and Francesco must become best friends immediately, and Pierre-Adrien will tutor the two of them in architecture--"The boys will keep themselves busy, and Francesco will be a perfect guide and companion. And, before I forget, if there's anyplace you want to go that's not usually open, take Laura, she's been getting doors opened for me for years now."
For Pierre-Adrien and Louis-Alexandre it all became like their own private (Italian) family; it's even how Francesco got so good at French.
Joseph-Benoît Suvée Portrait de Louis-Alexandre Trouard 1774
"Pâris also had close relations with G.B. Piranesi. We saw Pâris exchanging engravings at his home on September 1, 1772. But the obvious sign of the familiarity of their relationship, as well as the esteem that Piranesi had for the young French architect, is that he entrusted him with the architectural education of his son Francesco. In the "Historical note on the life and works of G.B. Piranesi" by J.G. Legrand, we find the following two pieces of information: "He [Francesco] had, when it comes to architecture, made serious studies under Pâris, a learned French architect then resident in Rome, and whom the love of the arts and distinguished talents had closely linked with G.B. Piranesi," and "He [Giovanni Battista] did not neglect his [Francesco's] education and this child could hardly read when Piranesi put in his hands Roman history as a reward, he told him only of the great deeds of Scipios, Fabius, Catos and other illustrious Romans whose language he wanted him to learn at the same time as the elements of drawing and the principles of architecture, and as he did not have the patience to give these first lessons himself, he sent him assiduously to the Académie de France and congratulated him every day on the honor he had of being born Roman [...]." The choice of Pâris can certainly be explained by the talents of our architect, and by the common taste of the two artists for antiquity, but the fact that Pâris, at the same time, taught architecture to the young Trouard was certainly decisive. Paris had obviously stood out as a pedagogue, and Piranesi took advantage of it. Francesco and Louis-Alexandre were also about the same age, 14 and 13 years old."
Pierre Pinon, Pierre-Adrien Pâris architecte (1745-1819) ou l'archéologie malgré soi (doctoral thesis, 1997), pp. 41-2.
2023.08.12
visual comparison
 
2008.08.12
Had a great time at night. We [all] first walked to the Spanish Steps and climbed half way up. Then went restaurant hunting; went to a pizzeria down a side street. Some Texans at another table paid for our wine, and the waiter gave us two bottles of wine for free. We didn't leave the place till after twelve.
We walked back to the Spanish Steps where some probably drunk Italian Stallions were kicking empty soda cans down the steps. Went to find what Jean hid for me [a couple weeks earlier] at Quatro Fontane. I'll tell you, she is no big spender--about 11 cents in foreign currency is all she left along with a note. But the search was worth it. Came back to the Spanish Steps and met up with the rest of the crew. Also kicked cans since it was the new thing to do.
Got home at 1:30 and tired as hell but didn't fall asleep till 3:30.
1977.08.12
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